Afghanistan

Afghanistan was once an important stop along the silk road. Today, the industry is challenged by economic forces, the long years of war and somewhat surprisingly religious doctrine. Thousands of Afghan silk producing and weaving families are finding it hard to continue their traditional craft and as a result, the world is in danger of loosing an unusual and versatile fibre.
Afghanistan’s historical wealth was based in agriculture. Alongside grapes, apricots, pomegranates and wool, silk thread and woven products were important income earners for farmers and artisans across the country.
The most important indigenous use of silk was not women’s clothing or carpets, but silk turbans and chapan, the long – sleeved coat worn by men in Central Asia. Afghan women reared mulberry and worms and the silk fibre was reeled and spun in small local factories employing hundreds of workers. Cloth was hand woven in ateliers or at home. Chapan are still in great demand, but conservative religious leaders have forbidden men to wear silk turbans and as silk is four times the price of synthetic, there is little complaint.
In the 1960s, 8 silk research centres were set up to breed worms and mulberry adopted to Afghanistan’s varied microclimates. During the Soviet occupation, silk production stopped. Breeding lines for worms were lost, research centres closed.
Some resources remain in the silk centres of Heart and Mazar, but silk reeling technology is decades behind the times. No new mulberry cultivation or worm rearing techniques have been introduced till recently when some international NGOs and developmental agencies have taken an interest as part of their agricultural portfolios. These efforts are haphazard and disorganised are not undertaken to meet market demand.
The silk industry in Afghanistan does not have domestic markets large enough to finance innovation. The high price of silk goods puts them out of the reach of the local consumers and the local market is shrinking. There is not enough concentrated capital and leadership to support outreach to international markets or to support collaboration with international research and development centres. The industry and local markets are not sufficiently rationalised to support efficiency. International fibre brokers and design houses know nothing about Afghan silk.
Afghan silk fibre is well suited to range of high fashion and interior design uses including upholstery and winter garments. Afghan silk fibre substitutes well for Thai and Lao traditional silks. The Afghan silk industry is well organised with producers groups, trade associations, communication and shipping facilities already in place.
The Afghan silk industry needs exposure to the international fibre market which currently is unaware of its existence. International and national development agencies are willing to provide money and expertise to help Afghans modernize their silk industry is a market for Afghan silk fibre can be demonstrated.